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Arjeplog, Ammarnäs och Korallgrottan – Gone Camping i vildmarken


Welcome to Gone Camping
and Kraja Camping in Arjeplog. I’ll head out in the wilderness from here and tonight, I’m offering you fly fishing
and a tour of Sweden’s largest cave. You’re welcome to join me. “Kraja” is Sami
and means “the place you long for”. We’re in the heart of Lapland here. The four-star facility offers about 60
camping lots and about as many cabins. It’s a perfect spot
for those looking for quiet scenery and the option of an active vacation. The facility is on a peninsula,
surrounded by Hornavan’s clear waters, and if you want to experience the lake
up close, you can rent a raft. The 12×4-meter vessel
has a wood-burning sauna. And given that Sweden’s deepest lake
is only 14 °C on this summer day, it’s nice to build up some heat
before going swimming. You can try to catch char for dinner, and if the fish aren’t biting,
there’s a grill on board. But you don’t need to be out on the water
to enjoy good food and drink. The inn offers genuine
northern culinary delights. And why not end the evening
with something nice to drink outside. The next day, we head south to a place
known for its legendary grayling fishing. Ammarnäs. Looking at a map, you get the sense
that this village is at the end of the world, but the people here say
that this is where the road begins. In this remote part of the country,
nature is untouched by man, and you can spot the fish
in the clear waters. We have lots of different running waters
close to Ammarnäs. If you live in Ammarnäs, you can get to
different types of fishing in a short time. It’s a really good starting-point
for a fishing vacation. Per Jobs works with
ecological fishing tourism in the area, meaning for instance that catch
and release is always advocated. We’re fishing in running waters and have to think from the fish’s
perspective. What do the fish see? A lot of people throw their fly
to where the fish are striking, but that’s throwing behind the fish.
The fish is waiting a bit upstream. It sees a floating insect, follows it
with the current and catches the fly. Then it returns to its waiting place. You should place your fly a few meters
upstream of where you see the fish. That’s easy to miss. Per tells me to focus
on not dragging the line. His advice soon pays off
and I’ve caught my first grayling ever. When you release the fish,
make sure it gets oxygen. If we make sure that it has plenty of
oxygen in its blood when we release it, it will do a lot better. Grayling is an amazing fish
that puts up a real fight and strikes at both dry and wet flies
all season. And if the sun is shining,
the odds are really in your favor. The nature up here is so beautiful
that it brings tears to my eyes. The air, the stillness
and the open spaces bring you a sense of calm
that you only get out in the wilderness. We continue south,
to the northernmost parts of Jämtland, right by the Norwegian border. I’m going hiking, not by myself
but with a packhorse carrying food, water,
clothes and other supplies. There’s a lot to discover
in the wide open country and it’s up to you
if you want to hike for one or more days. I have my sights set on the Coral Cave. When it’s time to make camp, I unload
the horse and set up a makeshift pasture where he can recover
after today’s efforts. When you’re out in the middle of nature, you find that the small things in life
sometimes can be the big things. Sitting here,
I realize how much I’ve missed this. Spending the night in the great outdoors
and just enjoying the silence. I’m off to bed soon, and I’m letting
the horse sleep in tomorrow. I’ll be heading down the hill
for a tour of Sweden’s longest cave. Good night. The next morning, I’m joined by
my cave guides August and Katharina. They’ve brought a really great breakfast,
with goodies from local producers. Knee pads
are part of the standard equipment and that tells me that it won’t be
a quiet walk in spacious cave halls. The entrance is locked
for safety reasons, and you’re only allowed in
together with a guide. As we climb down,
I feel how the temperature drops from 20 °C to a mere 4 °C. 500 million years ago,
there was a large tropical ocean between our continent
and North America. Lots of different materials
were deposited in this ocean, such as clay, sand and lime. It was compressed into rock and
pushed up over Sweden and Norway. In this place, it’s eroded
and left very pure limestone. It’s almost 98% limestone. You can see how the water has flowed
and eroded the rock. You get to go 500 meters into the cave
and the tour takes two hours. You often have to
squeeze through narrow passages. But there are alternate routes
if you want to avoid the narrowest parts. It’s a constant adventure. What’s great about these tours is seeing
how others also think it’s an adventure and become cave enthusiasts
after having been here. Except for us visitors,
the cave is completely dead, but for fungus mycelium spreading
its white threads over the walls. The silence of the mountains
is nothing like the silence below ground. All I hear is the sound of my own breath. The entrance was modest,
but the exit is magnificent. I’m greeted by a waterfall
hurling down the side of the rock, welcoming us back
to the light and life above ground. Full of impressions from eventful days
in some of our coolest wilderness areas, we head back to civilization
and Hotings Camping, where we enjoy
a warm summer evening. At Hotings Camping, there are 24
camping lots and highly situated cabins with a beautiful view
of the swimming lake. After a few days in the wilderness,
it’s nice to get back to the campsite. Freshly showered and shaved,
with a nice meal in my stomach, I’ll top things off with a nice dessert. I cut marshmallows into pieces
and dump them in suitable glasses. We add hot coffee,
which melts the candy. We add a splash of Kahlua and
a couple of scoops of vanilla ice-cream. A perfect dessert if you can’t decide if
you want ice-cream, coffee or liqueur. This has it all,
kind of like Gone Camping. Thanks for joining us on our adventures. I hope to see you again on this channel
or out on the roads. We went grayling fishing
with Fish Your Dream. The packhorse hike
was arranged by Korpens Öga. And guided tours of the Coral Cave
are provided by Vilseledaren. We stayed at Kraja Camping
and Hotings Camping.

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